I just finished brewing a Mild yesterday. It’s in the fermentor bubbling away at about 167F, but the gravity is a bit higher than I was planning. I ended up at 1.039-1.040 when I was aiming for 1.038. Initially I had 1.043 until I added a quarter gallon of water before pitching the yeast.
I thought back through my process and can attribute the higher gravity to two things: 1) I boiled off more water than I expected and 2) my efficiency was higher than the 70% I planned.
After the sparge, I ended up with 4.5 gallons of 1.036 wort, which is a total of 162GU. My expected GU was 152, and the max potential GU was 217.27, so I was closer to 162/217.27 = 75% efficient.
I might have been a few percentage points over 70 during most of my brews, but I close enough, and often I hit my targeted original gravity right on the dot. So I’m pretty sure that two things caused this: I mashed out with hotter water than normal and kept the grain bed at a slightly hotter temperature during the sparge. Rather than dump in water at around 175-180F, I boiled two quarts separately in a small pot and dumped it in at around 210F or so, close to boiling.
I sparged with water at 170-180F or so, which kept the grain bed above 160F. I’m not sure if I ever got close to 170F (the recommended mash out temperature), but I was definitely closer than in previous batches.
I also boiled off .75 gallons, slightly more than the .5 gallons I usually boiled off, which will be important to note in the future.
The key takeaway, though, is this: Raising the temperature of the grain bed with a significant mash out and maintaining that temperature during the sparge will increase your efficiency.
I think it might be time for me to start calculating recipes with 75% efficiency.
- You can grow your starter at room temperature.
- Whether or not you decant the spent wort on top of your yeast is up to you.
- At pitch your yeast should be within five degrees (F) of your wort.
- It’s best to pitch a few degrees cooler than your target fermentation temperature and let the yeast warm up than to pitch a few degrees warmer and cool the yeast down.
$12.38 for four gallons of beer. That’s what it’s going to cost me to brew a Mild this weekend. Target OG of 1.038, but I’d be fine with 1.035. I’m going to try and pitch yeast from my last batch (Wyeast 1469 – West Yorkshire). I just rinsed it and put it into a 2qt batch of wort. We’ll see how it does.
It should produce 40 bottles or so, which works out to 30 cents a bottle. Not bad at all.
The closest I’ve ever come to having a “Murakami Moment” was during the celebratory dinner after my high school graduation. We went to the Crescent City Brewhouse in the French Quarter. I’m not sure whose genius idea it was to take a bunch of 18-year-olds to a brewpub, but we had dinner (no booze, of course) and then went to Tipitina’s for an all night party: The real goal of the dinner and celebration was to keep us all out together somewhere safe with a moderate level of supervision.
But the damage had been done: As we were leaving the brewpub I caught sight of a giant mural on the wall that depicted the entire brewing process from grain to glass. (I can’t remember what it looked like, but in my mind it’s rendered by Diego Rivera.) I decided then and there that I would brew beer that summer.
Although the Internet was still in its infancy, John Palmer had already uploaded his book How to Brew, which had all the information I needed. Fortunately I also had two friends up for the challenge and a local homebrew shop that was willing to outfit us. (Alas, that homebrew shop did not survive Katrina. RIP Brew Ha Ha.)
We bought kits, boiled them up, threw them in a carboy, and sure enough they fermented for us. We never measured anything and only barely kept the fermentations at reasonable temperatures. That’s how I brewed for a long time until—13 years later—I finally managed to get through Ray Daniels’ Designing Great Beers and upgrade to an all-grain brewing setup.
But going all-grain wasn’t easy. You can still buy all-grain kit beer, but I was determined to brew less blindly than I had been before. It was also frustrating to dig through the resources for building equipment, many of which assume endless supplies of money.
Once I got everything going, I started putting together my own explanations. The result is “Goldilocks Homebrewing.” I’m not a great homebrewer (yet), but I am a good teacher and a decent writer, and if you’re just getting started, I can help you.
Pre-order now, and the book will be out on November 1st, which is conveniently Learn How to Brew Day!